Q: How is the wave data calculated?


A: The calculated wave data derives from this document https://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/wavemeas.pdf as stated in the Buoy manual.

Significant Wave Height:

                                                                                        

H1/3 is calculated as the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves.

H1/10 is calculated as the mean wave height of the highest tenth of the waves.

Hmax is the highest wave height.

 

Hm0 is calculated using the power spectral density:

Hm0 = 4 * sqrt(m0), where m0 is the zero moment of the power spectral density.


Both H1/3 and Hm0 can be used as values for Hs (significant wave height). The value we put in the export for “Significant Wave Height” is Hm0, which is the most commonly used definition.

 

H1/3 is also available in the export if the client wishes to use that definition instead.

 

More info about this - Coastal Engineering Manual Part 2: https://www.publications.usace.army.mil/USACE-Publications/Engineer-Manuals/u43544q/636F617374616C20656E67696E656572696E67206D616E75616C/